Product Information & Care Instructions
Natural materials & use
I’m often asked whether the tableware I make is actually intended for use. The forms can appear, and often are, quite delicate. And the creamy white sycamore - a favourite of mine - can seem too light to withstand contact with coloured foods.
But yes, these objects are absolutely intended for use. Some pieces may also be chosen mainly for ornamental use - to sit as sculptural objects - but they are still made with the same care, finish and material considerations.
To get the most from them, they should be treated with care and used appropriately. In some respects, they are best handled as you might handle fine china or glass. They are made from solid wood, so they have strength and resilience, but they can still chip or break if dropped, particularly if they land on a delicate edge or raised detail.
They’re not designed for curries or sauces with heavily coloured spices, for example. But they are used successfully every day, in homes and restaurants alike.
No decent, natural-looking wooden surface is entirely waterproof or stain-proof, especially with lighter woods such as sycamore. But with care, your piece will age beautifully and last for many years to come.
Each piece is carefully refined and finished by hand, then sealed with multiple coats of food-safe natural oils and waxes. I use a blend developed by The Lucero Company (L.Co.), made with tung nut oil here in Vietnam. Their work with social enterprise and community-based partners is something I’m very happy to support, and the oils and waxes are supplied with relevant certification for food-contact use and applicable European and US requirements. I’ve found the finish to be beautifully protective, food-safe and natural.
The surface will resist moisture and staining as much as is realistically possible. I regularly test with wine, beetroot and soy to ensure the pieces are up to scratch. But wood is a natural material, once living, with complex and unique cell and fibre structures that continue to respond subtly to use, washing, temperature and humidity. This is part of what gives wooden objects their character over time.
I prefer the finish to look as natural as possible. On sycamore, I tend to favour a softer, more matte surface. Walnut benefits from retaining a little more sheen, which helps preserve its depth and lustre. Over time, with use and washing, the finish will naturally soften and settle. Applying a natural wood balm or oil occasionally will help keep the surface nourished, protected and looking its best.
General care
- Hand wash only with warm water and dish soap
- Or simply wipe with a damp cloth where appropriate
- Avoid soaking and DO NOT wash in a dishwasher
- Dry fully with a cloth before storing
- Occasionally apply a natural wood balm or oil (such as mineral or linseed oil) to keep the surface nourished and
protected - It is also advisable to avoid leaving strongly coloured foods sitting on the pieces for extended periods, as some staining or discolouration can occur over time.
Surface maintenance
With extensive use and repeated washing, the surface may eventually become slightly dulled or feel a little “furry”. This is completely normal with natural wood.
If needed, the surface can be gently refreshed using a fine wet-and-dry sandpaper - ideally between 800 and 1000 grit - before reapplying a natural wood balm or oil to keep the surface nourished and protected.
Plates and boards
All plates and boards are made from single, solid pieces of wood - never laminated or glued together.
Because of this, some natural movement can occasionally occur with shifts in temperature and humidity. Every step is taken during preparation, shaping and finishing to minimise this, but from time to time a slight wobble may develop. This often settles again naturally and will not affect use, though it can understandably be frustrating.
Many newer designs include carved stabilising points underneath to help the pieces sit flat and reduce scratching.
For pieces without these stabilising points, I recommend applying small silicone dots (“cabinet door softeners”) to the
underside. This is also what many restaurants using my work do. Small hemispheres around 8 mm in diameter and 3 - 4 mm thick work best and are widely available online and in most hardware stores.